A Portugal Road Trip - 10 days, 10 hotels

PORTO

Porto Portugal is a charming mix of modern aesthetic and old-world charm.  With the Douro River brimming with colorful Portuguese fishing boats meandering through the ancient, quaint city, Porto rises above its banks, boasting pastel-hued homes, myriad bars and eateries with a rich nightlife.  Both banks of the City reveal its warm character and a walk over the bridge adjourning the two is a must – the views, spectacular.  A wonderful way to see (and feel) the heartbeat of the City is via a Sidecar tour.  Yes, a Sidecar, like in an old-fashioned European film, only with helmets.  The ride is slow and steady and offers a wonderful way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. And you’ll be the envy of all who pass as they trudge up the ample hills that define Porto.  Be sure to stop for an espresso along your journey through Lisbon and feast on one of their wonderfully rich pastries – you’ll have earned it as Porto is a town of rolling hills and steep inclines.

Along the banks of the River is the Ribeira area of Porto - a bustling boulevard that boasts a string of bars and cafes.  Buskers and musicians offer free entertainment as boats float by with grace and grandeur while tourists sample the local fare and bask in the midday sun. 

I stayed at The Rebello, a modern boutique-style hotel fashioned out of an old factory on the banks of the river, in Gaia, across from The Rebeiro.  Replete with every modern convenience, not only does The Rebello have stunning views of the water and its nostalgic fishing boats, it also offers beautiful views of the well-manicured old-town edifices across the river.  A stone’s throw from The Rebello is WOW, a district of unique shops, art galleries, watering holes, casual eats (with indoor and outdoor seating) overlooking the City and its lovely landscape.  As jet lag was setting in, I decided to take advantage of the Hotel’s restaurant, Pot and Pan Restaurant. A delightful combination of Portuguese and other delicacies with a fabulous wine list and wonderful service, a worthy pit stop.

I also visited the Yeatman Hotel, where I was graciously given a tour of the spectacular property built into Porto’s hillside just above The Rebello.  Porto is all about views and the Yeatman is no exception.

In the middle of the city is the Monumental Hotel.  Modern, classic, urban, the Monumental is just that, Monumental.  It combines old with new, charm with class, and city with comfort.  Its Art Deco design is warm and inviting, reminiscent of the Orient Express, the hotel, in a word, is a stunner.

While I was lucky to visit the City of Porto, two nights was not enough. 

SANTA CLARA

Sometimes you find a place, a hotel, a property, that transcends a trip. That is The Lince.  Nestled in Portugal’s picturesque countryside perched atop a lazy and lovely river that winds its way through a tiny forgotten village, the Lince is just North (east/west) of Porto, yet worlds away. A renovated old abbey/convent/monastery, The Lince took years to complete and was well worth the wait.  The hotel is part modern minimalist, part manicured castle and part massive ancient ruins – eclectic doesn’t seem to do it justice.  From its modern studio design to its sweeping arched ceilings to its substantial stone walls, The Lince is a spectacular setting for an elegant wedding or a romantic weekend getaway.  Perhaps most notable, however, was its underground restaurant - a secret space found beneath the rubble during the renovation that has been transformed into one of the most stunning restaurant spaces imaginable.  Surrounded by ancient stones and stunning lighting, the cave-like restaurant is as cool and seductive as it is unique - a sight to behold. Replete with its own garden, several pools, a serene and soulful spa, beautiful views, impeccable service and gourmet offerings, a night at The Lince, should not be missed.

DUORO

Douro is wine country, come thirsty.  With its verdant hills, myriad vineyards and rolling river, Douro surprised me as its lush, hilly, yet rural, landscape seemed almost tropical.  East of Porto, about a 2-hour drive Douro rises about its namesake river, nurturing myriad grasses, flowers, and of course grapes.  I stayed at the Octant Douro, which is tucked into the hillside, and offers breathtaking vistas.  My room, with two walls of floor to ceiling glass, boasted remarkable views of native and abundant flowers, the remarkably green landscape and of course the glorious river below that waltzed its way through the valley with the ease and grace of a dancer.  The Michelin starred restaurant offered a bounty of memorable Portuguese and Continental specialties for the most discerning gourmet traveler to the hungriest of hikers.  The hills of Douro offer great trails for those looking to traipse the land, while the Octant’s spa – also with spectacular views – offers a more relaxed and pampered option.

The 516 Bridge is among the longest suspension bridges in the world.  A UNESCO world heritage site, the bridge spans the Douro River and is a site to behold.  About 70 stories above the river, with waterfalls and walking trails, the bridge is not for the faint of heart.  The walk across, which took roughly 15 minutes, was as exhilarating as it was terrifying, and I highly recommend it. But note – there are two sides to the bridge, obviously, make sure your ticket, which should be purchased in advance online, is for the side/location you want.  Also note the drive from the Octant to the Bridge, while wildly beautiful, is winding and hilly and a bit nerve wracking – so give yourself plenty of time.

And finally, a trip to Douro would not be complete without the wine.  Whatever your fancy, white, pink or red, it is all delicious, abundant and memorable.

ERICEIRA

A bustling beachfront town filled with an abundance of surfers and sun seekers, Ericeira, is a white-washed, sun-soaked small city boasting sand and surf and sun sets.  Set atop the craggy Atlantic coast, Ericeira may be filled with tourists, but its natural beauty is second to none.  This once sleepy beach town is now filled with small shops, artists’ wares, and surfer schools, and is worth a visit.  I stayed at Aethos Ericeira, yet another hotel beautifully beholden to its sweeping views, here though, it’s the rugged Atlantic Ocean that laps at its doorstep.   Set upon a bluff overlooking the cascading waves, and precariously perched on a cliff, Aethos offers the unmistakable sights and sounds and scents of the Ocean.   The service was warm and welcoming, the wine, wonderful and the food, simple yet elegant.  I’ll drink to that.

Also in the area, I was welcomed at the Immerso Hotel for a site visit.  Brimming with surfers and families alike, the Immerso is set in a green, lush valley with views of the Atlantic in the distance. From the Hotel’s lanai and adjoining restaurant and reception area, one can grab a drink and watch as the orange sun slowly sets over the green-blue ocean.   Dedicated to sustainable and green living, the Immerso is a lovely respite.

COMPORTA

Along the coast just about 2 hours south of Lisbon sits Comporta, a somewhat sleepy, secluded enclave with world-class properties, quaint towns with white-washed shops and homes, and beaches.  I stayed at the aptly named Sublime Comporta.  Quiet, hidden, and lovely, the Sublime is comprised of rooms and villas offering a measure of luxury and privacy.  Sublime’s focus, as was mine, was relaxation.  The gym, the spa, the pool - the property can best be described as a peaceful retreat.  While dinner at the Sublime was absolutely top-notch with Portuguese and international options, it was the abundant, elegant buffet breakfast that will bring me back.

Once a rice-producing ranch, and still abutting farmland, the nearby hotel Quinta do Comporta, is sprawled over several acres, dotted with modern villas decorated luxuriously in keeping with the ranch/farm motif.   The main structures on the property – the restaurant, reception, gym and spa - are original, but modernized, with an homage to the ranchers who once farmed the land.  Although the property includes a glorious infinity pool facing the rice fields, and some villas enjoy their own pools, Quinto do Comporta is nearby to the beach – a glorious wide tract of white sand as far as the eye can see.  

My first visit to Comporta was in 2015 when the area was just beginning to be recognized by international visitors.  A lot has changed in the 9 years since my first visit as the area has become more of a resort “destination” .  You can read more in my blog post here from 2015.

LISBON

A city worthy of note and steeped in history with an eye to the future, Lisbon is warm and welcoming.  It is ancient yet new, sleepy yet vibrant, grand yet charming.  Lisbon has it all.  I decided to stay in the heart of the city.  Lumiares is a lovely boutique hotel with all the amenities, including a rooftop terrace with an enviable view.  One step out of Lumiares’ front door and there are small local designer shops to the left, town squares to the right, with cafes and cobblestones, everywhere.  While I always recommend walking a city to capture it’s culture, Lisbon is City of hills, many, many steep hills,  While that may be great for a workout and will earn you a pastel de nata or two,  I recommend a city tour by tuk tuk  – an open air car (and driver) that can navigate  the tiny, windy streets and steep inclines .  Be sure to head to the hills to see a spectacular view of the city and the port.  Another nearby hotel is the Biarrio Alto.  Set a upon a park amid the bustle of the city, the newly renovated Biarrio Alto is in a centuries old building and combines the charm of the old with the amenities  of new.  If you’re making reservations for dinner be sure to note that most restaurant do not open for dinner until 8…Lisbon is truly a city that never sleeps.

The Temples, Tombs, Pyramids and Sand Dunes of Egypt

This Spring Break our family decided to tic another country off our “bucket list” and indulged in a 10 day adventure throughout Egypt.   Our visit was managed by an exceptional on the ground “tour operator” which is a must when traveling to a country which can best be described as “Organized Chaos”.   Every aspect of our trip, from start to finish, we had our own personal concierge and Egyptologist/guide at our side, helping us navigate through towns, airports, local streets and most importantly gaining us access to  underground tunnels and tombs not on the “regular tourists” list and most importantly providing us with an unparalleled education on the mind blowing history this country has to offer.   If you are seeking a family trip that includes adventure, education, some downtime and a snap shot of an eye opening world experience, look no further than a trip to Egypt.    

We arrived in Cairo and our adventure started with a “bang”.   I didn’t have any expectations so I was surprised by this city of 9.5 million which is intensely high paced and chaotic.   The constant sound of honking horns, cars weaving through the streets, people taking their life in their hands crossing highways is a site I have never seen.   We stayed at the Four Seasons Nile River.  Service at the hotel was excellent, and the food is very good with lots of variety.   We dined both in the hotel and also explored restaurants outside of the hotel for both lunch and dinner.    Pricing, in general, for accommodation, food and touring is very affordable in comparison to other major destinations. 

Our first day was a visit to the Cairo museum with our Egyptologist and guide, Hassan.  The artifacts, especially when accompanied by a proper narrative and description, are mind boggling.  We spent the morning here, however if you were very keen, you could easily spend a few days.  Our afternoon was spent doing a walking tour through the old Islamic quarter and a food tour for lunch where we experienced a little bite to eat at local food stands and restaurants.  Being up close and personal with Cairo is a very interesting experience only enhanced by our guide who brought so much to the table in many respects.  

Our second day started with an early morning trip to Saqqara, the necropolis of Memphis, which is home to the step pyramid.     At nearly 4400 years old these are among the oldest pyramids in Egypt.  Here you are able to go into the tunnels under the pyramids, and into a number of tombs where you will see 4000-year-old, carvings, and paintings that are very full of life and still have most of their original colors.  While the Giza pyramids are the most famous in the world and supposedly one of the highlights of a visit to Cairo, my husband and I were in agreement that the visit to Saqqara felt more rewarding than our visit to Giza.   

We spent the afternoon visiting the great pyramids of Giza, which is everything that they are billed as.  The difference between Giza and all the other sites we visited is there is little opportunity to get up close to artifacts. Certainly the magnitude of the site is awe inspiring, and when, accompanied by a guide, all your questions will be answered.   We had pre reserved lunch at the newest restaurant which overlooks the pyramids.  This is a must.  The food was top notch and the setting is absolutely amazing.  After lunch we ended our day of sightseeing by seeing the Sphinx.   

On day three we flew from Cairo to Aswan where we boarded our three-night cruise on the Nile aboard the Jaz Viceroy.   While in Aswan we visited the Temple of Philae,  a UNESCO heritage site and is on its own island in the Nile River.  Our ship was very comfortable and our room was not unlike a well-appointed New York hotel room.   Having recently been renovated, It was very spacious, including the bathroom which had also had great shower pressure!  On the top deck of the ship there was a swimming pool and a very nice area to lounge and have a drink while enjoying the sights and scenery while sailing along the Nile.     

On the 3 night cruise we saw many sights including the Temples of Kom Ombo and Edfu.  In Luxor we visited Karnak temple, which is the largest religious complex built for a god.  It’s hard to fathom how they moved such massive pieces of stone thousands of years ago.  In addition, we also visited Luxor temple, equally awe inspiring. The two sites are connected by a 2 km road that is adorned with thousands of Sphinx statues each weighing multiple tons.  And, of course what trip to Egypt wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Valley of the Kings. Again, this is an opportunity to get very up close and personal with history. We visited the tomb of King Ramses 6 and the tomb of King Tutankhamen, Hatshepsut Temple as well as a couple other equally impressive sites.   I would highlight again that not having a well-educated guide would considerably diminish the visits to these sites. In addition to having the local knowledge on how to gain access to certain Tombs and how to skirt a few lines, the stories about the discoveries and the kings who built the tombs are invaluable.   Valley of the Kings is by far the best preserved archaeological site that we visited. Inside the tombs, the carvings and paintings are as vibrant as they might have been 3000 years ago.  It is really astonishing what the Egyptian’s accomplished millennials ago.  While we did not make it to Abu Simbel, this is another site I might recommend including however does require additional travel.   

Having spent 5 full days taking in the sites and history, we then changed gears to enjoy some of the other things Egypt has to offer.   Up next, we went to Soma Bay a resort area on the Red Sea.  Here you will find many European tourists enjoying the perfect weather, white sandy beaches and crystal clear blue waters.    We stayed at the Kempinski, which is one of many large chain hotels located in this area.   There are many activities to keep you busy in case you need something more than just lying on the beach or by the pool.   There is golf, kiteboarding, windsurfing, snorkeling, glass, bottom, boats, go karting, parasailing, golf, tennis, paddleboard, and a well-equipped spa.   Service at the hotel was very good, the rooms were large and clean.   Another similar beach destination you might also consider is Sharm El Sheikh, also located on the Red Seas and would offer a similar experience.  

After a few days of R+R at the Red Sea we carried onto an area called Fayoum, Egypt’s largest oasis area.  We stayed at Lazib Inn which overlooks Lake Qaroun, a very large salt water lake. The inn had roughly 20 rooms over a sprawling and extremely beautiful garden.  Lazib would be considered the most high-end property at Fayoum. The food, service and views are excellent.  Unlike much of Egypt, you will find part of this  area is relatively green, and is known for its farming of grains, fruit, olives, and vegetables.  The town of Tunis in Fayoum is also known for its pottery where we took advantage of pottery class.   Our final day in Egypt we were picked up in a  Land Cruiser from the Lazib Inn where our driver took us Four Wheeling on the Sand Dunes in the nearby desert of Wadi Rayan.  This was certainly one of the highlights for our 15-year-old son especially when we stopped and the driver pulled out of the trunk of our vehicle a snowboard specifically rigged to sand board down the steep dunes.  

 In this area we also visited Valley of the Whales, an archaeological and UNESCO heritage site with a museum and some open-air fossils of prehistoric whales which were found in the middle of the desert.  The scenery in this area is spectacular and diverse.  One minute you are in a true desert with never-ending sand dunes and optical illusions of water and the next minute you actually see a freshwater lake including waterfalls.  I would characterize our visit to Fayoum as a medium intensity dive into prehistoric Egypt, combined with having some fun in the desert.    

All in all, Egypt is an amazing trip. It’s a unique step back in time.  It’s a trip I would recommend for families, couples, or small groups. I might mention children should be a minimum of eight to ten years of age as there is a fair amount of walking not to mention historical  information. The exposure to a bustling country with a very rich and diverse culture is eye opening.  As an educational experience, I can’t imagine a trip anywhere in the world where you would suck up so much information and see such inspiring sites. It’s a once in a lifetime trip.

A Family Yachting Adventure in Croatia

Our family recently teamed up with another family and completed one week on the most catamaran  on the coast of Croatia. We hired a Bali 5.4 which is a 54 foot catamaran sailing yacht that is over 30 feet wide and has enough space for a dozen people.   Our catamaran was configured with five bedrooms, four queen size beds and one bedroom with two twin beds. The largest bedroom was more spacious than many of the small New York City hotel rooms.  Each bedroom had its own shower and toilet and there were an additional two small bedrooms for staff.

We had a skipper with an abundance of experience who knew all the great towns to visit and all the small bays to duck into for a swim or to see something novel.  The hostess on board made breakfast and lunch each day and kept the boat clean and tidy so it was really a vacation with no responsibilities.  We visited three fairly well known ports as well as three very small local ports that were off the tourist grid.  The larger ports of Hvar, Stari Grad and Korcula Had an abundance of shopping, restaurants, and old European town charm while the three smaller ports we visited represented amazing local experiences with ultra cute towns and great local dining. It was a perfect mix for our group

This boat trip could be tailored for hard-core sailors or novice sun worshiping tourists like us. The route was tailored to our wants and desires.  Each day we would sail for between 2 1/2 and five hours.  each day we would stop on our route once or twice to swim, snorkel, wakeboard, are use the stand up paddle boards. We would also pull into a unique little bay each day for lunch and a bottle of rosé. 

It’s hard to imagine how our trip could’ve been much better than it was. The dining, the scenery, the people of Croatia, our boat and the service on the boat we’re all much better than our expectations. I would highly recommend this trip to a group of 2 to 4 couples or two families with kids.