Discovering the Allure of the Ligurian Coast

Cooking Class overlooking Portofino Bay

Discovering the Allure of the Ligurian Coast A Memorable Journey through Forte dei Marmi, Santa Margherita, and Portofino

Forte dei Marmi: A Shopper's Paradise

Forte dei Marmi is known for its beautiful beaches and high-end shopping, making it an ideal stop for those who love to indulge. Despite the overcast skies, we reveled in the town’s cozy atmosphere, strolling past boutiques featuring all the major European designer brands. While we couldn’t enjoy the sun-soaked beach, window shopping and soaking in the town’s charm was a delightful experience.

Hotel Principe Forte dei Marmi, and I can confidently say we have zero regrets about our choice. This boutique hotel, with its only 28 rooms, offered an intimate and luxurious experience. The hotel features lush gardens and a Michelin-starred restaurant that tantalized our taste buds each evening. Breakfast was a cozy affair on the main floor, setting the tone for our days ahead.

The small gym served its purpose for a quick workout, but it was the five-star spa that we truly adored. After long day of exploration, we indulged in the spa’s steam and dry saunas, hot and cold pools, and other amenities. My friends, who joined us, took advantage of various spa treatments and raved about the quality of the services. One of the standout features of our stay was the exceptional service. Lorenzo, our concierge, went above and beyond to arrange a myriad of activities and dining experiences for us. Whether we changed our minds or had a last-minute idea, he was always accommodating and full of helpful suggestions. Our rooms were spacious and filled with natural light, adorned with luxurious bedding, plush towels, and cozy bathrobes, making it a perfect retreat after our daily adventures.

Santa Margherita: A Taste of Italian Tradition

Next, we traveled to Santa Margherita, where we checked into the Grand Hotel Miramare. This stunning cliffside hotel overlooks the breathtaking Ligurian Sea, blending traditional Italian elegance with modern comforts. Our room, large and beautifully appointed, offered a lovely view of the hotel’s garden, ensuring that even without a sea view, we felt surrounded by beauty. The Grand Hotel Miramare exudes classic Italian charm, with its spacious rooms and rich decor. After a long day of exploring, we appreciated the large bathroom and rejuvenating showers that felt divine. Though we didn’t utilize the concierge extensively, the staff was always ready to assist, offering recommendations for local restaurants and shops. One evening, we dined at a charming family-run pizzeria in Santa Margherita. The bustling atmosphere, combined with the delicious smells wafting from the kitchen, made for an unforgettable meal. The friendly service and authentic flavors reminded us of why we love Italy—the food and warmth of its people truly embody the spirit of the country.

Portofino Adventure: Culinary Delights in a Stunning Setting

Our journey culminated in the picturesque fishing village of Portofino, where we embarked on an adventure at La Portofinese. This experience was unlike any other—an educational, one-table dining experience perched high atop the hills, surrounded by vineyards and stunning views of the Ligurian Sea.

After meeting our guide at the charming, cobbled square of Portofino, we climbed into a tiny green vehicle for a thrilling ride up Monte di Portofino. The winding roads provided breathtaking views, but I recommend sitting on the left side of the car if you're fearful of heights—the steep drops are indeed dramatic!

Upon reaching our destination, we were greeted by a knowledgeable host who led us through a vibrant farm, where we picked plump grape tomatoes and marveled at the beauty surrounding us. The open-air pergola where we would dine was adorned with flowers and vines, offering a breathtaking backdrop for our culinary adventure. Our chef, Paola, guided us as we made our own pasta, shaping it into corzetti, and prepared Liguria’s famous basil pesto. The aroma of fresh basil and garlic wafted through the air, tantalizing our senses. Following our cooking session, we toured the olive oil production center, honey-making kitchen, and the brewery and winery. As we returned to the dining area, the table was beautifully set, showcasing a feast of bruschettas topped with homemade pesto, traditional tomato, and goat cheese with honey. Each bite was a celebration of local flavors, but the highlight was undoubtedly our freshly made pasta, dressed in the vibrant pesto we had crafted ourselves. We savored every moment, concluding with a delightful honey vanilla ice cream dessert that was the perfect ending to our unforgettable day.

Memories to Cherish

Reflecting on our journey along the Ligurian Coast, we are filled with gratitude for the experiences, the breathtaking landscapes, and the culinary delights we encountered. Despite the less-than-perfect weather, the warmth of the towns and their people, along with the luxurious comforts of our accommodations, made our trip truly special.

If you’re considering a visit to Italy, I wholeheartedly recommend exploring the Ligurian Coast. With its stunning scenery, rich culture, and incredible food, it’s a destination that promises unforgettable memories and experiences to last a lifetime.

Discovering the Glamour of Lake Como

Discovering the Glamour of Lake Como: Journey Through Villa D’Este, Le Sereno, and Mandarin Oriental Milan

Nestled in the heart of Italy, Lake Como has long been a magnet for those seeking beauty, tranquility, and a touch of luxury. While George Clooney may have brought Hollywood glamour to the region with his stunning lakeside villa, just a stone's throw away lie many equally captivating options for those looking to explore the lake's charm.

Villa D’Este: A Glimpse of Timeless Elegance

Our adventure began on a misty October day, as we arrived at Villa D’Este. Despite the rain, the hotel’s charm was undeniable. The moment we stepped into the vast lobby, we were enveloped by warmth and sophistication. The long, narrow space was flooded with natural light, illuminating the intricate mosaics and grand chandeliers. Plush couches beckoned us to sit, while floor-to-ceiling windows framed stunning views of the majestic Lake Como. Our suite was nothing short of spectacular. With high ceilings adorned with ornate cornices, rich brocaded drapes billowing slightly from the gentle breeze, and plush furniture that invited relaxation, the room exuded timeless elegance. The spacious walk-in closet felt like a small dressing room, enhancing the luxurious experience.

Exploring the small city of Como was a highlight. Wandering through Cobblestone Streets lined with charming piazzas, we discovered upscale boutiques, artisan markets, and cozy coffee bars. Eager to soak in the beauty of the lakeside, we opted for a scenic 4-mile walk back to Villa D’Este. The route hugged the shoreline, offering breathtaking views of shimmering waters and beautifully manicured parks. Upon our return, we settled onto the lakeside patio for an indulgent afternoon snack paired with a crisp glass of wine. It was the perfect way to unwind after our adventures.

A Day on the Lake with Vianoce Boats

No visit to Lake Como is complete without a day on a private boat, and we quickly realized why. Alessandro, our captain, was a local with a passion for the lake and a wealth of knowledge. His perfect English made it easy to engage in conversation as we glided across the water on a stunning 26-foot Italian boat. As we cruised along, Alessandro regaled us with stories of the famous villas dotting the shoreline—each with its own colorful history. From the opulent Villa Carlotta to the romantic Villa del Balbianello, every site was steeped in tales of love and intrigue. For lunch, Alessandro recommended a charming lakeside restaurant, where we enjoyed delicious local dishes while basking in the serene surroundings. What struck us most was Alessandro’s laid-back approach; he never rushed us, allowing us to savor each moment on the water. His enthusiasm and professionalism made our day truly special.

Le Sereno: Modern Elegance Overlooking the Lake

Our next stop was Le Sereno, a contemporary masterpiece perched on the hillside. After navigating a hair-raising drive off the main road, we were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Lake Como. The hotel’s design is a stunning blend of modern architecture and natural beauty, ensuring that every space—from the lounge to our room—offered a view of the shimmering lake.

The aesthetic was captivating: a mix of exposed concrete and steel paired with warm wooden accents and chic Italian furnishings. Every detail felt carefully curated, making it a visual delight.

Though we didn’t dine at the hotel, the menu and wine selection looked enticing, leaving us eager to return for a meal. The floating pool, perched above the lake, provided a dreamy vision of relaxation, and I could easily imagine myself lounging there on a warm summer day.

Mandarin Oriental Lake Como: A Luxury Experience Above the Rest

The hotel is perfectly perched on the cliff overhanging Lake Como. Because of that the views are very majestic. You can see for miles in three directions and trust me there is a lot to see. One of the first thing that strikes you as you enter, the property is the level of professionalism and the quality and quantity of service available to-each guest. Another striking feature is the decor. It’s a perfect combination of modern and traditional Italian that provides eye stimulus everywhere you gaze. Top marks to the designers. There are a lot of room categories on offer. So hopefully something for everyone. If you have a nice budget, the Mandarin oriental has some of the best high-end suites on the lake while the entry level rooms are tastefully laid out with everything you could possibly- except your own private lap pool. The fitness area is not huge, but it has all the essentials for a decent workout. The spa is large with many treatment rooms and an Uber extensive menu of services. They recently upgraded the Spa area. The property has sprawling gardens that are immaculately kept. Central to the waterfront portion of the hotel is a humongous floating swimming pool. Around the pool is an abundance of deck space and a very trendy poolside restaurant. I can imagine it to be quite the scene on a sunny August day. I was there in October, so I’ll have to go back to confirm that! We had a fantastic lunch overlooking the lake. It’s one of those places where you can ask for whatever you want, and they seem to come up with it. Two out of the three things we ordered we’re not on the menu, but they improvised to give us what we wanted. The Mandarin Oriental at Lake Como is missing very little. I would have no problem recommending this Hotel to even the most spoiled luxury traveler. For my eye, they seem to have everything close to perfect.

From the opulence of Villa D’Este to the modern elegance of Le Sereno and the unparalleled service at the Mandarin Oriental, our journey through Lake Como and Milan was truly unforgettable. Each destination offered a unique glimpse into Italy’s rich tapestry of culture, luxury, and natural beauty.

A Portugal Road Trip - 10 days, 10 hotels

PORTO

Porto Portugal is a charming mix of modern aesthetic and old-world charm.  With the Douro River brimming with colorful Portuguese fishing boats meandering through the ancient, quaint city, Porto rises above its banks, boasting pastel-hued homes, myriad bars and eateries with a rich nightlife.  Both banks of the City reveal its warm character and a walk over the bridge adjourning the two is a must – the views, spectacular.  A wonderful way to see (and feel) the heartbeat of the City is via a Sidecar tour.  Yes, a Sidecar, like in an old-fashioned European film, only with helmets.  The ride is slow and steady and offers a wonderful way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. And you’ll be the envy of all who pass as they trudge up the ample hills that define Porto.  Be sure to stop for an espresso along your journey through Lisbon and feast on one of their wonderfully rich pastries – you’ll have earned it as Porto is a town of rolling hills and steep inclines.

Along the banks of the River is the Ribeira area of Porto - a bustling boulevard that boasts a string of bars and cafes.  Buskers and musicians offer free entertainment as boats float by with grace and grandeur while tourists sample the local fare and bask in the midday sun. 

I stayed at The Rebello, a modern boutique-style hotel fashioned out of an old factory on the banks of the river, in Gaia, across from The Rebeiro.  Replete with every modern convenience, not only does The Rebello have stunning views of the water and its nostalgic fishing boats, it also offers beautiful views of the well-manicured old-town edifices across the river.  A stone’s throw from The Rebello is WOW, a district of unique shops, art galleries, watering holes, casual eats (with indoor and outdoor seating) overlooking the City and its lovely landscape.  As jet lag was setting in, I decided to take advantage of the Hotel’s restaurant, Pot and Pan Restaurant. A delightful combination of Portuguese and other delicacies with a fabulous wine list and wonderful service, a worthy pit stop.

I also visited the Yeatman Hotel, where I was graciously given a tour of the spectacular property built into Porto’s hillside just above The Rebello.  Porto is all about views and the Yeatman is no exception.

In the middle of the city is the Monumental Hotel.  Modern, classic, urban, the Monumental is just that, Monumental.  It combines old with new, charm with class, and city with comfort.  Its Art Deco design is warm and inviting, reminiscent of the Orient Express, the hotel, in a word, is a stunner.

While I was lucky to visit the City of Porto, two nights was not enough. 

SANTA CLARA

Sometimes you find a place, a hotel, a property, that transcends a trip. That is The Lince.  Nestled in Portugal’s picturesque countryside perched atop a lazy and lovely river that winds its way through a tiny forgotten village, the Lince is just North (east/west) of Porto, yet worlds away. A renovated old abbey/convent/monastery, The Lince took years to complete and was well worth the wait.  The hotel is part modern minimalist, part manicured castle and part massive ancient ruins – eclectic doesn’t seem to do it justice.  From its modern studio design to its sweeping arched ceilings to its substantial stone walls, The Lince is a spectacular setting for an elegant wedding or a romantic weekend getaway.  Perhaps most notable, however, was its underground restaurant - a secret space found beneath the rubble during the renovation that has been transformed into one of the most stunning restaurant spaces imaginable.  Surrounded by ancient stones and stunning lighting, the cave-like restaurant is as cool and seductive as it is unique - a sight to behold. Replete with its own garden, several pools, a serene and soulful spa, beautiful views, impeccable service and gourmet offerings, a night at The Lince, should not be missed.

DUORO

Douro is wine country, come thirsty.  With its verdant hills, myriad vineyards and rolling river, Douro surprised me as its lush, hilly, yet rural, landscape seemed almost tropical.  East of Porto, about a 2-hour drive Douro rises about its namesake river, nurturing myriad grasses, flowers, and of course grapes.  I stayed at the Octant Douro, which is tucked into the hillside, and offers breathtaking vistas.  My room, with two walls of floor to ceiling glass, boasted remarkable views of native and abundant flowers, the remarkably green landscape and of course the glorious river below that waltzed its way through the valley with the ease and grace of a dancer.  The Michelin starred restaurant offered a bounty of memorable Portuguese and Continental specialties for the most discerning gourmet traveler to the hungriest of hikers.  The hills of Douro offer great trails for those looking to traipse the land, while the Octant’s spa – also with spectacular views – offers a more relaxed and pampered option.

The 516 Bridge is among the longest suspension bridges in the world.  A UNESCO world heritage site, the bridge spans the Douro River and is a site to behold.  About 70 stories above the river, with waterfalls and walking trails, the bridge is not for the faint of heart.  The walk across, which took roughly 15 minutes, was as exhilarating as it was terrifying, and I highly recommend it. But note – there are two sides to the bridge, obviously, make sure your ticket, which should be purchased in advance online, is for the side/location you want.  Also note the drive from the Octant to the Bridge, while wildly beautiful, is winding and hilly and a bit nerve wracking – so give yourself plenty of time.

And finally, a trip to Douro would not be complete without the wine.  Whatever your fancy, white, pink or red, it is all delicious, abundant and memorable.

ERICEIRA

A bustling beachfront town filled with an abundance of surfers and sun seekers, Ericeira, is a white-washed, sun-soaked small city boasting sand and surf and sun sets.  Set atop the craggy Atlantic coast, Ericeira may be filled with tourists, but its natural beauty is second to none.  This once sleepy beach town is now filled with small shops, artists’ wares, and surfer schools, and is worth a visit.  I stayed at Aethos Ericeira, yet another hotel beautifully beholden to its sweeping views, here though, it’s the rugged Atlantic Ocean that laps at its doorstep.   Set upon a bluff overlooking the cascading waves, and precariously perched on a cliff, Aethos offers the unmistakable sights and sounds and scents of the Ocean.   The service was warm and welcoming, the wine, wonderful and the food, simple yet elegant.  I’ll drink to that.

Also in the area, I was welcomed at the Immerso Hotel for a site visit.  Brimming with surfers and families alike, the Immerso is set in a green, lush valley with views of the Atlantic in the distance. From the Hotel’s lanai and adjoining restaurant and reception area, one can grab a drink and watch as the orange sun slowly sets over the green-blue ocean.   Dedicated to sustainable and green living, the Immerso is a lovely respite.

COMPORTA

Along the coast just about 2 hours south of Lisbon sits Comporta, a somewhat sleepy, secluded enclave with world-class properties, quaint towns with white-washed shops and homes, and beaches.  I stayed at the aptly named Sublime Comporta.  Quiet, hidden, and lovely, the Sublime is comprised of rooms and villas offering a measure of luxury and privacy.  Sublime’s focus, as was mine, was relaxation.  The gym, the spa, the pool - the property can best be described as a peaceful retreat.  While dinner at the Sublime was absolutely top-notch with Portuguese and international options, it was the abundant, elegant buffet breakfast that will bring me back.

Once a rice-producing ranch, and still abutting farmland, the nearby hotel Quinta do Comporta, is sprawled over several acres, dotted with modern villas decorated luxuriously in keeping with the ranch/farm motif.   The main structures on the property – the restaurant, reception, gym and spa - are original, but modernized, with an homage to the ranchers who once farmed the land.  Although the property includes a glorious infinity pool facing the rice fields, and some villas enjoy their own pools, Quinto do Comporta is nearby to the beach – a glorious wide tract of white sand as far as the eye can see.  

My first visit to Comporta was in 2015 when the area was just beginning to be recognized by international visitors.  A lot has changed in the 9 years since my first visit as the area has become more of a resort “destination” .  You can read more in my blog post here from 2015.

LISBON

A city worthy of note and steeped in history with an eye to the future, Lisbon is warm and welcoming.  It is ancient yet new, sleepy yet vibrant, grand yet charming.  Lisbon has it all.  I decided to stay in the heart of the city.  Lumiares is a lovely boutique hotel with all the amenities, including a rooftop terrace with an enviable view.  One step out of Lumiares’ front door and there are small local designer shops to the left, town squares to the right, with cafes and cobblestones, everywhere.  While I always recommend walking a city to capture it’s culture, Lisbon is City of hills, many, many steep hills,  While that may be great for a workout and will earn you a pastel de nata or two,  I recommend a city tour by tuk tuk  – an open air car (and driver) that can navigate  the tiny, windy streets and steep inclines .  Be sure to head to the hills to see a spectacular view of the city and the port.  Another nearby hotel is the Biarrio Alto.  Set a upon a park amid the bustle of the city, the newly renovated Biarrio Alto is in a centuries old building and combines the charm of the old with the amenities  of new.  If you’re making reservations for dinner be sure to note that most restaurant do not open for dinner until 8…Lisbon is truly a city that never sleeps.